ONE WALL STREET, NEW YORK, NEW YORK

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The New York Times

There’s a subversive edge to this otherwise blithe simulacrum of a French salon inside the Printemps department store, with its frescoes, Languedoc marble tables and banquettes clad in Le Manach toile de Tours. The chef Gregory Gourdet, the son of Haitian immigrants, approaches France from the view of the colonies, moving from Vietnam to Louisiana but ever circling back to the Caribbean and its wealth of plantains, salt cod, Scotch bonnets, pikliz and not-so-humble rice and beans.

Mature and composed, dishes like smoked beets with nuoc cham and pickled strawberries or asparagus soup with crab and grilled cucumber deliver flavor and finesse in spades. Duck glazed in cane syrup and finished with a tamarind jus is pure fireworks, while jasmine rice with red kidney beans is at once subtle, confident and deeply satisfying. Beautiful cocktails round out the experience.

Financial Times

At Maison Passerelle, the new art deco brasserie at the Manhattan branch of French department store Printemps, the shrimp cocktail presentation is impressive, the ocean trout elegantly plated with cracker-crisp skin, the coconut chiboust light and airy to close out the meal. But the best thing on the menu might be the homeliest, a simple bowl of rice and beans, the recipe inspired by chef Gregory Gourdet’s mother’s home cooking.

The Infatuation

An amuse bouche of pastel-orange tomato soup, spiked with coconut milk and slivers of pickled jalapeño, tastes like a brilliant tom kha gai. A warm mini-loaf of plantain bread—gluten-free, like everything else on the menu—deserves full attention, even if the couple next to you seem more wrapped up in Italian villa rental negotiations.

The best dish was heritage duck breast and confit glazed in cane syrup and bathed in tamarind jus — a powerful, West African-inspired interplay of game-y, sweet and sweet-and-sour flavors.

But after 25 years in the business, Gourdet now has a growing empire of his own, and he has spent the morning tending to his latest high-profile project, the ambitiously often-Haitian-accented Maison Passerelle, one of five venues he’s overseeing in his role as culinary director of the new Wall Street branch of the grand Parisian department store Printemps.

For dessert, since souffles are so everywhere, Green wanted to take hers to the next level with the coconut chiboust ($21), a free-form version. The white-on-white plate displays a fluffy custard cloud laced with lemongrass and makrut lime, flanked by toasted coconut sorbet. Its soft textures — wobbly, light, cold, and creamy — contrast with bold flavors.

In French, passerelle means gateway or bridge. Which is exactly what Gourdet wants his Maison Passerelle to be: “It’s a bridge to these flavors and how they made their way around the world—and how there is a line through all these different countries,” he says.

Maison Passerelle Interior Setting

Guests of Maison Passerelle

Joel T.

May 11, 2026

This is obviously a splendid restaurant with spare-no-expense design elements including a beautifully crafted mosaic floor. But come for the food! It’s spectacular. Several of the dishes are bordering on beyond imaginative with thoughtful spice used in many surprising, yet delightful ways. Rarely have I had a meal where every dish—from appetizer to dessert—was this exciting and fresh. With one foot firmly planted in classical French technique, the other adventures across numerous stops from Haiti to West Africa. In a word, remarkable.

Casey

May 10, 2026

This is the only restaurant I’ve ever come across that is specially dairy- and gluten-free, and as those are my two dietary restrictions I had to come. That being said the food is delicious - interesting flavors, great execution and beautiful plating. We got one set menu (kampachi, the duck two ways, sticky toffee) and the peanut plantain soup (slightly spicy) and morel risotto. Only the risotto was overly salty but everything else including cocktails and mocktails were very good (note that a few of the NA drinks aren’t mocktails but rather bottled NA beverages). The sommelier was very nice and helped us to decide on beverages and I also noticed him helping serve food. Pricey but good for a special celebration. Only downside is they have only a single bathrooms, but I get the constraint of being attached to a department store. Would like to come back and try more things!

Nicholas L.

May 9, 2026

Off the charts flavors. Dreamy ambience. 20/10. I’ll be back.

Luka

May 9, 2026

As a first timer, was amazing. The atmosphere was wonderful from the beginning, starting with the warm greeting and welcoming by the host. Was escorted to my table and from there everything seemed to fit like a piece in a puzzle. Food was simply wonderful. Highlights would have to be the duck and coconut chiboust. Hats off to the entire working staff from the host to bartenders to servers/waiters and the talented group of chefs.